Monday, May 17, 2010

Interruption of normal broadcasting


Troops on Sathorn Road, at the entrance of our soi, (driveway). No traffic, and razor wire roadblocks. Saturday 15 May.




The soi from the condo, looking towards Sathorn Road. The Metropolitan Hotel on the left, The Banyan Tree on the right.



Soi from Sathorn Road towards the condo (1) above and (2) below


The situation in Bangkok has become increasingly difficult over recent days. On Friday we heard gunfire in the main road that connects to our soi, (lane), above. At night there was repeated gunfire, and we could see a fire burning in front of the Australian Embassy, which is situated very close by. This, like the surrounding Malaysian, German and French embassies joined the decision by the United States, British, Japanese and Dutch Embassies in the connecting road north, to close.

On Saturday we began to examine Plan B very closely, and this meant making the necessary financial arrangements to ensure utilities would keep running during a prolonged absence. In retrospect, it's strange how one develops a plan. In doing so we came across this contingent of soldiers in our soi, resting from the night time shooting activities. We also encountered a limousine from one of the nearby hotels returning on the empty main road and asked the driver if it would be possible to hire him to take us to the airport.

We then returned to the apartment to determine how best to proceed and to weigh up the fear and shock we were feeling at the deteriorating situation with the practicality of evacuation. This process was not assisted by a shocking cold that left me unable to plan with my usual military precision. Even the fairly mundane task of packing a suitcase seemed beyond my faculties, as it was not clear where we were headed, how long it would be for, or any factors of certainty.

By the the early afternoon and evening we had packed luggage for an anticipated departure to Scotland, and resolved to leave within a few days, in the hope that the situation in our immediate vicinity would have stabilised enough to allow us to get transport from our building to the airport. As I mentioned, the main road had been closed, and the army were agreeing to allow cars to enter on a case by case basis, but it would be very unlikely to be able to persuade anyone, (like our limousine service) to do so for fear of being caught in the crossfire.

On Sunday morning I went down to the soi and the soldiers were again resting from their overnight skirmishes with Red protesters, which appeared to centre around a petrol station nearby. In conversations with various people and through our security staff I understood that no cars would now be permitted to enter the main road, so we were effectively cut off. There were also rumours that a curfew would shortly be imposed. So we resolved there and then to evacuate immediately, and were grateful for having tied up the immediate loose ends, such as packing etc, so that this could be achieved expeditiously.

We then dragged our luggage through a battle scarred pavement, (with the remnants of smashed telephone kiosks, burnt out tyre residue etc), to a road where we were told we should be able to find a taxi. Happily there was one there, and several people willing to help load the suitcases. The money the driver required was inflated but reasonable and I was prepared to pay a lot more. I was also asked for money from the luggage helpers, and happily obliged. We then sped off to the airport at high speed.

Ironically within a short time we were outside of the area currently affected by the troubles; a tale of two cities indeed. At the airport we purchased tickets, and decided on Hong Kong, (for which we have permanent residence status) as our immediate destination, where we arrived last night, to stay with our old friend in his beautiful house on the Peak. The silence is almost deafening, and I slept deeply, overcoming the huge sense of shock that I must have experienced yesterday. 

As I mentioned, our initial plan was to fly to Scotland, but we learned on Saturday night that the Icelandic volcanic ash cloud was likely to cause the closure of UK airports, and indeed that has now occurred. Our hesitation and my cold at least prevented us embarking on a flight that would in all likelihood have had to return.

Immediate plans are of course uncertain, as we try to monitor the situation, but at least we can now plan them in an atmosphere of calm and safety, and happily, luxury too. For those who have sent their good wishes, I am very grateful. I will post from time to time, as and when.

Now more than when I last posted - Rest and be thankful.

23 comments:

Pigtown-Design said...

You are in our thoughts and prayers. It's so sad what's happening to Bangkok.

Go in peace.

xo

The Down East Dilettante said...

Please add my good wishes to that list---an amazing and frightening story.

lindaraxa said...

I sympathize with your ordeal, we left Cuba 50 years ago under similar circumstances, never to return again. It is a terrible feeling, not knowing when and if you will be back. You are blessed at least to have a home in Scotland and it's always nice to be able to find shelter in the country of your birth. Even though I have been an American for 50 years and love this country, there's really no place in this world that I can really call home. I am sure this situation will be resolved soon and you will be able to return to your beautiful place in Bangkok. In the meantime, rest and be thankful. Keep well.

Dandy said...

I am sending all the best thoughts and wishes your way. Hang on to hope.

little augury said...

Columnist, I was just thinking of you and your ongoing situation at home. I am glad you had formulated plans that could be carried out-and lucky to have friends with welcoming arms. It is hard to leave home and possessions- Glad you can let some of it go for a brief time-Restore your health both physical and emotional. Gaye

le style et la matière said...

Thank you for taking the time to explain. Courage to you - and stay safe.

tartanscot said...

good wishes and support from me as well. Y'all are in my thoughts.

xoxo,
Scot

Easy and Elegant Life said...

Be well. This too shall pass.

Looking forward to dispatches from Scotland. Ronda of All the Best is there. Say hi if you bump into her.

Thomas at My Porch said...

Talk about a report from the front lines. John and I have been wondering how you both were faring. Good to know you are safe.

columnist said...

P-D - thank you. It is indeed very sad, and difficult to see the light at the end of the tunnel, but it must be there somewhere.

DED - Appreciate your moral support.

lindaraxa - this evacuation was a first for me, and not something I ever anticipated when we came to live in Thailand in 2003; far from it. The country was a paragon of stability in a region not known for it, especially its neighbours, Burma, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. My birth country was actually Singapore, but as a Brit, my immediate family now live in Scotland. Like you, home has been where I make it, so Bangkok fitted that, and until we decide otherwise, it still does. Your experiences are a valuable insight, but I hope we shall return in the not too distant future!

Thank you, Dandy. I certainly do not believe all is lost yet.

la - things are things, and they will doubtless be fine. Strangely the one thing I worry about is having left the fridge quite full, feeling guilty that there wasn't time to pass it on to any neighbours still in the building, and now worrying that the maid may not be able to get there for days and days and it practically walking out by itself!

le style - I feel lucky in the circumstances, after reading the updates throughout the day of the current situation. There are many who are truly stuck, so I'm glad we decided to follow our instincts and go.

Thanks Scot, it really helps.

E&EL - I think your words are right, but of course it's difficult to see the clarity of that perspective right now, although a better chance of doing so from the safety of Hong Kong.

Thanks Thomas. A change from when we saw you in Bangkok!

Now, time to go off and clear our heads with a hike in one of the trails on the doorstep, and to look over the humming, buzzing but very comforting sight of Victoria Harbour! Just like old times, when we lived here 10 years ago.

Emile de Bruijn said...

Extraordinary to read your report. Like the others I am glad that you and yours are elsewhere now. The events in Bangkok have been on the news every day here recently.

home before dark said...

This is an amazing development. You should post this on Huffington Post or other media. Your eye witness of history is frightfully close.

The moment of decision of what to put in a suitcase was a tender sad one as we have so enjoyed your collector's angst and the delightful acquisitions you have made. At the time to leave paradise, you were lucky to get out and get out with the one you love. Glad you are safe.

katiedid said...

What a frightening experience! I wish all good things for you as you navigate this situation.

Best-
xo

Pat's Addition said...

Be safe. Thank you for taking the time to tell us about the situation you are facing. Good reporting.

Reggie Darling said...

Dear Columnist: What a vivid, and upsetting tale you tell. Thank you for doing so, as it is something all of us would do well to consider. I wish you and yours, and your adopted homeland, the very best in what appears to be an increasingly unstable situation. God speed. -- Reggie

columnist said...

Emile - thanks for your concern.

HBD - I think my own experience would pale in comparison to those who stayed, and experienced the events that unfolded yesterday. Unfortunately the press reports are biased one way or the other, and with so many uncertainties, it is difficult to know the full story. Perhaps we never will. I hope our absence is only temporary.

Thanks Katie.

columnist said...

Pat's Addition & Reggie

Thank you for your concern and encouragement. We met up with two other Siamese Refugees - our friends from Bangkok who evacuated yesterday morning and arrived in Hong Kong last night. We are all commiserating the sad story of this once beautiful and happy land, and wondering what the immediate future holds in store. Even the very immediate future is uncertain, with residual skirmishes continuing in the city today, and it will be difficult to make that assessment properly until after the weekend at the very earliest.

After that we shall have to evaluate the options, and there appear to be three at the moment.

Vyala-Arts said...

I cannot tell you how sorry I am about the terrifying developments in Thailand. I feel sorry for the people and the gap that is opening in this country, I feel sorry for you being forced to leave a place you called your home, I am sorry for all the people who unnecessarily died in these times and I feel sorry for all the people who seemingly have no hope for their future.
I really hope that there will be found a solution soon without using any further violence. It is frightening to see a country which seemed to be so stable now falling apart so quickly. May reason and hope come back quickly.
I wish you with all my thoughts that you may be able to return soon and find your home intact and ready to go on. I dare not to imagine how I would feel in these times.
May Buddha keep his hands on you!
Petra

Suzy said...

Glad to hear you are doing well and managed to get out safely. I hope for your sake the dreary polluted skies of HK clear up while you're here and you can enjoy being on the Peak. All the best.

columnist said...

Petra - it is indeed sad, and obviously we have been discussing it daily, between ourselves and with our friends. I am also in touch with friends in Bangkok, and am always hungry for information from them. They have suggested staying here longer, until things improve. The main road is still closed, and the supermarkets were emptied immediately after the crackdown, and I do not know the situation now, but clearly it would be very difficult and uncomfortable. We were scheduled to return on Sunday, but we will extend for another week and then reassess.

Hi Suzy. Although grey today, we enjoyed a very nice lunch al fresco in the garden yesterday, and then went to a great French restaurant in Old Bailey Street last night. But we turned down the invitation to go boating with our host today. In our state of mind it really doesn't much matter! It's just nice to be here, and not there.

Concrete Jungle said...

It is certainly pause for thought for all of us who live in this wonderful country. Next time pop down Phuket way....it is completely same same with no signs of trouble....all is peaceful but, very empty!

Author said...

Be safe during this upheaval. This strikes me as so many extreme acts. Thus it seems is the nature of addressing problems in anything - opposing positions have such a hard time giving one inch in terms of creating a solution - but rather defend their own. Nothing ultimately changes and the issue may go dormant for a while - only to re-emerge again. At such cost is our aversion to solutions and progress. So much is lost along the way.

Be safe.

columnist said...

Concrete Jungle - it is reassuring to hear that there has been no trouble in Phuket, even if it has few visitors. I wanted a clean break from Thailand, so Hong Kong seemed an obvious choice for me.

Author - my fear is that the underlying problems are not addressed, and the old sores fester. But I think many people were deeply shocked by what happened, so I hope it will be the catalyst. I think it is very unlikely that things will be the same again.

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